At 19 years old, Margo Hayes made history when she became the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+/5.15a with her ascent of La Rambla in Siurana, Spain. Getting the right climbing shoe is more about the fit than anything else.eval(ez_write_tag([[336,280],'climbernews_com-large-leaderboard-2','ezslot_6',116,'0','0'])); Adam is a fan of the La Sportiva "No-Edge" shoes and climbed in both the Futura and the Genius. Margo Hayes is shattering gender barriers and proving climbing isn’t just a man’s sport. Mad Rock aren't the most popular brand but they put out some top of the line shoes - and personally we'd say their designs and models are really under-rated. Growing up in the Rocky Mountains, Margo's hobby was initially gymnastics. In Lead and Bouldering at Hachioji, Tomoa Narasaki's climbing shoes were Unparallel Regulus climbing shoes. Margo Hayes is on fire. Video and photo recap from Slaydies in Spain... SIGN UP TO RECEIVE EXCLUSIVE PROMOTIONS,NEWS & TIPS AND ALSO BE ENTERED TO. The 21-year-old American climber from Boulder, Colorado has sent Papichulo, her third 5.15a.Hayes famously became the first woman to climb 5.15 when she sent La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain, on February 26, 2017. It also saves you the experience of googling feet in a public café and trying to explain what you are doing. Il 26 febbraio 2017 Margo Hayes, di Boulder, Colorado, è diventata la prima donna a farcela su un 9a+ (5.15a) consolidato con la salita di La Rambla a Siurana (Spagna), settore El Pati. Read more about Janja Garnbret- Janja Garnbret Profile - Best Comps, Training, Diet, Stats and more. Watch excerpts from her historic ascent in this short video. Alex Megos. Essentially the same design with a slimmer middle and heel. He also pulled the same two shoes trick when he wore a La Sportiva Miura VS on his right foot and a La Sportiva Futura on his left while climbing "Terranova". The Solutions are a very popular climbing shoe for hard routes and are very down-turned and aggressive for the smallest foot holds and smears.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'climbernews_com-box-4','ezslot_7',128,'0','0'])); Tomoa Narasaki wears his own signature shoe from Unparallel called the TN Pro. 19 year old Margo Hayes sends La Rambla (9a+/5.15a) in Siurana, Spain, and makes history by becoming the first woman to climb at that grade. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Beth Rodden loves to wear Miuras for bouldering, sport climbing, and trad. The Miura is a popular shoe with a slight downturn that does good as a mix between comfort and performance. In recent competitions it looks like she is wearing an unreleased demo version of some new Five Ten shoes... Daniel Woods climbing shoes are his new pro model - the Evolv Phantom. It seems like in the past three or four weeks we have been inundated with some amazing stories of women absolutely crushing it in the rock climbing world. En février 2017, après 7 jours de travail, elle réalise La Rambla (9a+) dont la cotation a été confirmée par de nombreuses répétitions ; la presse spécialisée la désigne comme la première femme ayant réalisé une voie de ce niveau. A word on Unparallel shoes- When the Five Ten brand got bought by Adidas - the designs didn't. Women are the fastest growing demographic in the rock climbing world. Margo also displays incredible maturity – climbing Waka Flocka while wearing a helmet, something rarely seen among pro sport climbers. She has worn the Five Ten Dragon in competition and in bouldering, as well as the Instinct VSR. Shauna also wears the Five Ten Hiangle Women's. Margo Hayes, native to Boulder, Colorado, thrives on both the thrill of competition and the serenity of climbing in nature. It's an aggressive laced shoe made in a smaller size for children/smaller feet. With Vibram XS Edge rubber, a flat toe box, and a little padding above the toes and around the ankle these are great for tiny edges and cracks. Free Shoe Winners will be randomly selected each month and contacted via email. By 13, Margo had given up gymnastics to focus on climbing. He worked with Evolv on the Shaman - and an updated Shaman 2 release - a great edging and hooking shoe with a very sticky rubber, as well as the Pontas. This unprecedented success comes in the wake of the American's ascent of La Rambla at Siurana in Spain last February, thanks to which she became the first woman in the world to climb 9a+. It also has other benefits like your toe being closer to the front of the shoe and more feel when adding pressure. He also wore the Women's Solutions too. In 2013, the North Face declared the teen a rising talent; by 2016 she had climbed 9a and won multiple golds in World Youth Championships. Its a shoe made out of 95% recycled material taken out of oceans. Montagne Aventure Photographies Amis Ensemble Fille Escalade Escalade En Montagne Sports Extrêmes Parkour. He's Japan's biggest hope for Olympic Gold, especially after he won both the Combined and Bouldering events at the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019. The Norwegian youtube star and former high level competitor definitely has a favorite. Margo Hayes REEL ROCK 12 - #Hayes #Margo #reel #Rock . Maturity tends to come with age. She also sometimes wears Five Ten shoes like the Hiangle and the Anasazi LV Pro, both in the Women's or Low Volume (LV) versions. Chris Sharma's climbing shoe of choice right now is the Tenaya Mastia. YiLing Song - the previous Women's Speed Climbing World Record holder also wears the same La Sportiva Cobra's that many speed climbers wear. No two are exactly alike. Leukotape® P is simply the best climbing tape available in the USA. She's trained her ass off, she's restructured her life to this goal. It's a great shoe that fits different foot shapes fairly well, has a moderate downturn and aggression, and has a very molded heel cup. He wore the XX on his left foot and the Solutions on the right. Today's episode is this time a little more informative as we will dig deeper into the alchemy of climbing shoes. She uses this for basically everything in the past few years. Alex Honnold often wears La Sportiva TC Pros which are the Tommy Caldwell signature shoes. The 20-year-old rock climber was the first woman to climb a 5.15a grade route (on La Rambla in Catalonia, Spain) in February of last year — and she’s already repeated that feat this past September with an ascent of Biographie/Realization. She went on to send Biographie, also 5.15a, on September 24, 2017. They have the down turn, pointed toe hook, and rubber over the top that you'd expect from a hard bouldering shoe - but with a comfy and adjustable lacing system. They wear a few different models, including the Shark, Red Line, Remora, and the Drone. Margo Hayes sur ClimbingAway ! In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001. Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse Sport climbing: on 24 September 2017 Margo Hayes repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse in France. [Also Read The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World] … Shop high-quality unique Margo Hayes T-Shirts designed and sold by artists. Margo Hayes in an interview. In 2013, the North Face declared the teen a rising talent; by 2016 she had climbed 9a and won multiple golds in World Youth Championships. They are a stiff, down-turned, and aggressive shoe for steep and challenging bouldering and sport climbing. Nothing excites her more than clipping the chains on a route overlooking her own backyard. Shop Your Favorite Big Brands During Backcountry's ... Margo Hayes on the ... 2017 continues to be a standout year for rock climbing. It gives an ultra precise edge on the big toe for the smallest holds, as well as power through the foot when pushing up. Petzl Belgique. Overall it's slightly more aggressive and suited for modern competitions and hard sport climbing. There is a video of Chris Sharma climbing Biographie on u-tube, he talks about dead pointing into a shallow pocket, and he is a 6ft tall. It is more flexible and has Scarpa's newer closure system that allows it to fit different foot shapes better. Also known as UP, this new company was formed by Five Ten engineers who took a lot of the old styles from Five Ten and fixed small issues with them. Plus one, here! Margo Hayes is a rock climbing athlete for The North Face. Log in sign up. Alex Honnold is going to wear something different than Tommy Caldwell, different from Margo Hayes.” This allows for a little more leeway when placing your foot on indistinct holds or when smearing. In this article, notable first ascents of hard routes and boulders are listed, which are regarded worldwide as milestones in the history of sport climbing. In high-end modern rock climbing, 5.15 is the top of the difficulty scale, a grade achieved by only a few men and never by a woman. Sasha is sponsored by La Sportiva and Five Ten so wears a mix of their shoes. Shop high-quality unique Margo Hayes T-Shirts designed and sold by artists. If you have a question on what shoes other professional boulderers or rock climbers wear, get in touch on social media and ask us - we'll do a bit of scouting and find out! It's good all in one we'd suggest if you are newer to climbing, instead of getting the TC Pros which are more specific to big walls. Read Margo Hayes insta post below, hopefully we'll get a video of this insanely pumpy climb soon. For example, we have seen Akiyo Noguchi and Margo Hayes, formerly in Solutions, climbing in Skwamas during recent competitions. From a young age, Margo showed an incredible aptitude for athletics. User account menu. The Iati are stiffly downturned with a pointed toe and tight heel. At the beginning of 2017, Margo Hayes sent La Rambla (9a+/5.15a), becoming the first woman to successfully climb at the grade. Margo Hayes Year Born: 1998 First climbed: Age 10 Climbing regularly since: Age 10 On ABC since: 2008 Height (as of June 2012): 5’3” Ape Index (as of June 2012): 5’3” Favorite Outdoor Areas: Colorado areas Red River Gorge, Kentucky Rodellar, Spain Hueco Tanks, Texas Favorite Route: The Force 13a Red River Gorge, Kentucky Favorite… A creative, intelligent, and driven young woman has emerged after years of training on and off the rock, recently making history as the first female climber to redpoint 9a+/5.15a. Not many climbers keep the same shoe for speed and most opt for a lighter slip on like the Cobra. For and extra personal touch, have two initals stamped into the heels -- just select that option and provide the… Détails 1 novembre 2018 Pétillante, sympathique, avenante, les compliments sont nombreux pour qualifier Margo Hayes que nous avons rencontré chez l'incontournable Miguel's pizza cet automne à Red River Gorge. Inc. All Rights Reserved, "Biographie" (5.15a); first female ascent, "La Rambla" (5.15a); first female to climb a consensus 5.15a/9a+, "Zulu" (5.14a) and "Double Rainbow" (5.14a) in one day. On 24/09/2017 Margo Hayes made the coveted first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse, France, first climbed in 2001 by Chris Sharma. Margo Hayes has been pushing her personal limits and redefining convention since she was competing in Female Youth D divisions. Ai Mori tends to wear the La Sportiva Futura shoe. November 6, 2020October 3, 2020 | Gear Guides, Climbing Gear Reviews, Climbing Shoes. Margo Hayes posted on … Maturity tends to come with age. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. The Hiangle is a popular shoe that most climbers use for hard bouldering. The line was first climbed by Chris Sharma and is a 50 metre endurance-based route. to protect the climber, as opposed to permanent ones used in sport climbing. Honnold is a big fan of the La Sportiva Solutions for harder sport climbing. These shoes were designed specifically for Yosemite style, granite, big wall climbing by Tommy Caldwell.eval(ez_write_tag([[580,400],'climbernews_com-medrectangle-3','ezslot_1',126,'0','0'])); He used to wear the La Sportiva Miura a lot - including on his free solo of the Half Dome in Yosemite. They're a very popular performance climbing shoe with a sharp down-turn and precise toe. What Rock Climbing Shoes Does Alex Honnold Use? Definitely read up and try on a few first though.- Sport Climbing + Bouldering - La Sportiva Solution / Women's- Big Walls - La Sportiva TC Pro- All Round - La Sportiva Miura Lace / Women's. © 2020 La Sportiva N.A. More great climbing gear reviews- Best Climbing Shoes- Best Beginner Climbing Shoes- Best Beginner Climbing Harness- Best Beginner Bouldering Pads. This climb is MANY grades harder than anything I'll ever do, but Hayes has it so put together it almost looks possible for mortals. It is designed to be light and streamlined - built perfectly for indoor walls and the plastic holds used in Speed Climbing or gym climbing. A part of Team Petzl since 2016, this elite climber has a penchant for sport climbing at cliffs both near and far. Climbing at a high level is when you need the most confidence in your footwork, so we make our shoes to a climber’s demand. We put this comfy rock climbing shoe to the test outdoors and in the gym. FL Pro Margo Hayes making her historic ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) in Siurana, Spain. Margo Hayes almost always wears the La Sportiva Solutions Women's climbing shoes. INFO: Red Bull Mar 5, 2020 - This Pin was discovered by Dee Craig. Jonathan Siegrist uses the La Sportiva Testarossa lace ups as his favorite shoe, Skwama as a softer shoe for better surface area contact, and the Otaki for edging and precise footwork. "What climbing shoes should I buy?" Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts . This puts him in a prime position for Sport Climbing at the 2020 2021 Olympics. In Lead and Bouldering at Hachioji, Tomoa Narasaki's climbing shoes were Unparallel Regulus climbing shoes. In the year 2017 scored the American Margo Hayes the route La Rambla and wrote climbing history (LACRUX reported). What Climbing Shoes Does Alex Puccio Wear? Margo Hayes has been pushing her personal limits and redefining convention since she was competing in Female Youth D divisions. Spotlight: Margo Hayes and the Power of the Mind. At the top level of hard sport climbing - shoes do make a difference. , 69 of Batavia, passed away peacefully on Sunday, June 16, 2019 at Crossroads House. Although Margo enjoys traveling to new destinations, for her, there is no place like home. The Phantoms were designed by Evolv with input and testing by Daniel himself. Shauna Coxsey wears the Five Ten Anasazi LV Pro climbing shoe for most of her climbing. He also uses La Sportiva Solutions when training at home and bouldering. These were the shoes Margo wore when she climbed Papichulo 9a+. She's been wearing them since thy were first released 20 years ago! They are an aggressive shoe that fit tight, with a downturn and asymmetry to match. Futaba Ito wears the Women's version of the La Sportiva Skwama. Paige Claassen works up a beautiful swath of Spanish limestone, "Chulita" (8c). The passionate rock climber tells us in today's post, which equipment she takes for a day on the rock. He also wears the Tenaya Tarifa for some boulder problems.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'climbernews_com-leader-1','ezslot_12',117,'0','0'])); Over the years Chris Sharma's climbing shoe choice has changed depending on sponsors, what route he is trying, and because in his long climbing career the technology has changed so much. They're a great, versatile climbing with a down turned front foot and a flexible mid-sole. We were only just starting to promote Margo Hayes for her Reel Rock feature on climbing 9a, when she sent her … She had, however, given up on the weight-saving hair idea. She went on to send Biographie, a 5.15a in Céüse, France, in September of the same year. Brooke Rabatou wears the La Sportiva Solution in the Women's version for most of her bouldering and ldead climbing. In the "Free Solo" documentary, Honnold climbed the Freerider on El Cap wearing TC Pros the entire way. Mawem Brothers Climbing Shoes - Mickael + Bassa Mawem, La Sportiva TC Pro - Used by Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Pamela Shanti Pack, and Jonathan Siegrist, La Sportiva Solution - Used by Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Adam Ondra, Jonathan Siegrist, and more, Unparallel TN Pro - Used by Tomoa Narasaki, La Sportiva Miura VS - Worn by Adam Ondra, Alex Honnold, Emily Harrington, Beth Rodden, Tenaya Iati - Used for "Biographie" 9c / 5.15d, Tenaya Mastia - Chris Sharma's go-to climbing shoes, Five Ten Hiangle Women's - Worn by Janja Garnbret, Sasha Digiulian, Shauna Coxsey, Tenaya Oasi - Worn by Moho Nonaka and Chris Sharma, Evolv Shakra - Ashima Shiraishi's climbing shoe of choice for indoors and out, Five Ten Anasazi Pro LV - Designed and worn by Shauna Coxsey, La Sportiva Solution Women's - Worn by Sasha Digiulian, Miho Nonaka, Beth Rodden, Margo Hayes and more, Scarpa Instinct VS Women's - Worn by Alex Puccio, La Sportiva Cobra - Worn by Reza Alipour and many others for Speed Climbing, La Sportiva Testarossa - Favorite of Jonathan Siegrist, Tenaya Oasi - Worn by Jimmy Webb, Moho Nonaka and Chris Sharma, La Sportiva Solution - Used by Nalle Hukkataival, Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Adam Ondra, La Sportiva Miura Laces - Worn by Beth Rodden, La Sportiva Skwama Women's - Worn by Futaba Ito and Akiyo Noguchi, La Sportiva Solution Women's - Worn by Brooke Raboutou, Miho Nonaka, Beth Rodden, Margo Hayes and more, La Sportiva Futura - Worn by Ai Mori, Adam Ondra, and Margo Hayes, Mad Rock Shark - Worn by Mickael and Mawem Bassa, Janja Garnbret Profile - Best Comps, Training, Diet, Stats and more, Black Friday + Cyber Week Climbing Gear Sales 2020 - Best Sales Online. In free climbing, a first ascent (FA), or first free ascent (FFA) is the first successful, documented climb of a route or boulder performed without using equipment such as anchors, quickdraws or ropes for aiding progression or resting. I would not replace your shoes right this moment, if they aren't worn out yet. Bio photo: © Michela Obrien  |  Banner photo: © Jon Glassberg. A creative, intelligent, and driven young woman has emerged after years of training on and off the rock, recently making history as the first female climber to redpoint 9a+/5.15a. She went on to send Biographie, also 5.15a, on September 24, 2017. A minimal down-turned shoe that slips on and off. Close. Issuu is a digital publishing platform that makes it simple to publish magazines, catalogs, newspapers, books, and more online. Alex Puccio mainly wears Scarpa Instinct VS Women's. Spotlight interview with Boulder, Colorado’s Margo Hayes, the first women to climb a confirmed 9a+/5.15a, La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain. L’americana, ormai superstar da 190.000 followers, è la maggior candidata a raggiungere Angy Eiter sul tetto del 9b femnminile. She has busted her ass. She's refined her technique under masters of movement. Posted by 1 year ago. The Futura is one of La Sportiva's "No-Edge" technology shoes, in which there is no sharp edge at the toe.